WBo2 Cables & Construction from Cable Kits

for Bosch LSU sensors

The cable from the WB unit to the LSU sensor requires care and expertise to construct. It must also be robust to withstand the mechanical strain of use. We sell a pre-built cable but DIY is entirely possible, as described here.

Buy (Pre-Built) Controller-to-Sensor Cables

Most of our controllers use a cable to the sensor. Available in standard lengths and with various end connectors. Buy 0.4 m 1.0 m 2.6 m 4.0 m 8.0 m cable for 7057/7200 6066 NTK L1H1 017025 LSU 4.9 sensor at quantity :

Buy DIY Cable Kits (also requires sensor Connector)

Cable Kits are available in either a 2.6 or 4.0 m lengths. You can make the cable from scratch using what wires you have available, but we suggest you use our kit to give you all the wires, the tough woven fibreglass sheath, heatshrink joint covers and the end circular connector, but NOT the sensor connector kit.

For NTK sensors (L1H1) ...

If you are constructing the NTK version of the cable for the L1H1 sensor then see the NTK cable page, but refer to this page for detailed construction information.

This image shows all the parts required for the circular 8 pin plug end of the sensor cable. First remove the two screws securing the retaining bar of the metal housing. The two cables can now just be threaded through the housing.

Make sure all the pieces of heatshrink are in place before soldering. Leave sufficient space by bunching up the fibreglass braid, but don't twist the cables within the braid as they are hard to reseat. Be careful of prematurely heating the small heatshrink tubes with the soldering iron.

Here's a close-up of the previous step - the soldered ends of the 8 pin connector. The thin wires are shown.

here's another close-up of the soldering, but the thick wires are shown, and the heatshrink has been pushed over them.

Again, check for shorts or opens between all conductors and the shield of the grey cable.

Here's a third shot of the end, from a different angle, and showing the unsoldered pin 5. The heatshrink has been pushed down and heated. Note that the central pin 8 (copper braid) should be the first pins to be soldered. Also note that some of the braid has been removed to make it thin enough to solder to that pin.

The medium sized heatshrink has been pushed over the circular connector and heated. The clear tubing (non-heatshrink) has been pushed closer too.

This shows the final resting place for the clear tubing. the circular shell is now eased back down the cables, making sure they slide back without twisting or removing their PVC insulation.

The large heatshrink tube is now pushed down into the small hole in the connector's shell. The image shows the effect after heat has been applied to the heatshrink. Note that the fibreglass braid is under the heatshrink and the housing's single screw has been re-inserted.

The Harness connector end of the cable attaches to the sensor. You make up the harness connector by first making up the wires that solder to the harness connector's terminals. Begin by baring 3 mm of wire at each end of the lengths of the coloured cables.

The seals are pushed on to the wires and the terminals are crimped (or simply attached with some small pliers) and then soldered carefully. Note how the wire supports are crimped after soldering (otherwise the PVC is melted).

All the coloured wires can now be inserted in the correct holes - refer to the diagrams above showing the back of the harness connectors. On the 7057 connectors the purple seal retainer can be push all the way home. On the 6066 connectors the black seal retainer can be clipped into place to retain the red seals.

The previous image also shown the short heatshrink tubes threaded onto the harness connector end in anticipation of soldering the two ends of the cable shown in this image. Note that the 4 core wire's copper shielding braid is not attached at the harness end and is simply cut off. Click on image for important detail.

The large heatshrink tube in the previous image should not be forgotten. The small heatshrink tubes are positioned over the solder joints ready for the heat gun. Keep the large tube out of the heat at the moment - the fibreglass braid is flexible so push it away.

The result of shrinking the small tubes - the wires have been separated for the photo, but while the heatshrink tubes are still hot they can be bundled as shown in the next step.

The larger heatshrink tube is moved from the left, making sure the end of the fibreglass braid is located roughly in the middle of the tube. The small bundle of heat shrunk connections should fit snugly as shown.

Completed harness connector end with the heatshrink pushed over the fibreglass braid and shrunk. Two cable ties have been added to secure the joints.